What Is Denim Fading (Aging)? How It Works and How to Raise It Well

Denim fading (aging) is the change by which indigo dye is gradually lost through repeated wear and washing, producing contrast in light and shade that follows the wearer's build and movement. Whiskers (crease marks around the hips), honeycombs (the lattice marks behind the knees) and vertical fading (streaked fading along the warp yarns) are the representative examples, and the same pair of jeans develops a unique character depending on who wears it. This is why denim is described as something you raise.

Updated: July 14, 2026 / Written by the KURO editorial team (Blues Inc.)

Why does denim fade?

Because the indigo dye colouring the denim does not soak through to the core of the fibre but stays on the surface, a structure called the white core (nakashiro). Looking at a cross-section of the yarn, the centre remains white and the dye simply sits on the outside.

This dye is vulnerable to water and friction, and it comes away little by little through wear and washing. Because it comes away differently in different places, with the most rubbed areas losing colour first, three-dimensional contrast emerges. Fading is not deterioration; it is an intended characteristic that only indigo-dyed denim has.

What are whiskers, honeycombs and vertical fading?

All are names for patterns that appear through fading: whiskers are the radiating crease marks around the hips, honeycombs are the lattice marks behind the knees, and vertical fading refers to streaked fading running lengthwise along the warp yarns.

Whiskers and honeycombs form where the body bends and creases are pressed into the fabric repeatedly, with dye coming away only from the raised ridges. Vertical fading appears especially strongly in fabric using yarn of uneven thickness (slub yarn), where the thicker sections rub and whiten first to form vertical streaks. The clearer this contrast, the richer the character of the fading is considered to be.

What characterises the fading of KURO denim?

Rope dyeing, which leaves the core of the yarn white, together with slub yarn, makes whiskers and honeycombs rise with strong contrast and depth. Low-tension weaving on vintage shuttle looms in Okayama produces a rough texture and unevenness, developing into vertical fading and contact marks belonging to the wearer alone.

GRAPHITE, KURO's flagship model, uses 12.5oz selvedge denim woven on vintage shuttle looms in Okayama, and this fabric is the basis of its three-dimensional aging. Fading that draws on the natural unevenness of the yarn, which efficiency-focused high-speed looms cannot produce, is the character of KURO denim.

Are there tips for fading denim well?

The balance between how long you wear them and when you wash them is the key. If you want clear contrast in whiskers and honeycombs, the usual approach is to wear them without washing for a while after purchase, letting the crease marks set before washing.

However, leaving sweat and body oils in the fabric for long periods damages it, so washing according to how often you wear them is what makes them last. At KURO we recommend that, if you want to enjoy the fading, you wear them for a while and then wash them inside out and on their own; that you avoid washing dark colours together with light-coloured garments and avoid leaving them wet for long periods, since dark colours can transfer; and that you dry in the shade, as a dryer causes shrinkage.

Frequently asked questions

Can fading be prevented?

Not completely, but it can be slowed. Washing less often, washing inside out and on its own in water, using a neutral detergent and drying in the shade all moderate the speed of fading. Conversely, if you want to make the most of the fading, keep these measures to a minimum and simply wear them.

How many months does fading take?

It depends on how often you wear them, but as a guide it takes several months before clear change begins to show and roughly six months to a year to develop deep contrast. The more you wear them daily the faster it is, and the less often you wash them the sharper the contrast becomes.

Does stretch denim fade?

It does fade, but it tends not to produce contrast as strong as 100% indigo raw denim. If you want to enjoy three-dimensional aging, selvedge denim with a low proportion of stretch, or none at all, is more suitable.

Can faded denim be returned to its original colour?

Colour that has been lost cannot be fully restored. Fading is a one-way change, so enjoying the process of raising them is the real pleasure of denim. If you want to keep them dark, care for them in ways that moderate fading while avoiding frequent washing.