What Is Raw Denim (Rigid)? Starch Soak and the First Wash Explained

Raw denim (also called rigid denim or non-wash denim) is denim that has had no washing or fading treatment at all after weaving, left stiff with its starch still in place. It is the deep indigo it was when it left the mill, and it is the form of denim closest to the original, made on the premise that the wearer will develop the fading themselves. The name "rigid" comes from the feel of fabric stiffened with starch.

Updated: July 14, 2026 / Written by the KURO editorial team (Blues Inc.)

How does raw denim differ from ordinary jeans?

The difference is whether wash treatment has been applied. Most jeans on the market are washed or faded at the factory to finish them soft, whereas raw denim has not been through that process and remains untreated.

Raw denim is therefore stiff and deep indigo at purchase, but the more it is worn the more it develops fading shaped by your own body and daily life. Where factory-treated jeans arrive with their fading already complete, raw denim offers the pleasure of developing that fading from zero. It is often confused with selvedge denim, but selvedge refers to the type of woven edge, while raw denim refers to the absence of treatment, which is a separate axis. Denim that is both, raw selvedge denim, also exists.

Should raw denim be washed first? (the starch soak)

It depends on your aim. Wearing it with the starch still in creates sharp creases and brings out strong contrast in whiskers and honeycombs, but forcing wear while the starch remains also makes the fabric more prone to damage.

If sharp contrast in the fading is your first priority, one approach is to make use of the starch and wear the jeans for several weeks to several months before the first wash. If you would rather limit the strain on the fabric, another approach is to run them through water once after purchase to remove the starch, giving the fibres some flexibility before you begin wearing them. Neither is the correct answer; you choose based on the balance between the fading you are aiming for and how easy the fabric is to handle.

Does raw denim shrink?

It does. Unwashed raw denim shrinks in the first wash, so you need to allow for shrinkage when choosing a size.

At KURO, because raw (unwashed) denim shrinks slightly through wear and washing, we recommend a size from just-right to slightly roomy. Length in particular does not readily return once it has shrunk, so it is safer to have any hemming done after the first wash is complete. If you are unsure about sizing, check the measurement guide on each product page or contact us.

What should I be careful about when washing KURO raw denim for the first time?

The basics are to turn them inside out, wash them on their own in water (or lukewarm water), and dry them in the shade without a dryer.

At KURO we recommend that, if you want to enjoy the fading, you wear them for a while and then wash them inside out and on their own; that you avoid washing dark colours together with light-coloured garments and avoid leaving them wet for long periods, since dark colours can transfer; and that you dry in the shade, as a dryer causes shrinkage. If the first wash follows this same care approach, the starch comes out, the feel softens, and the fading develops more readily from then on.

Frequently asked questions

Can I keep wearing raw denim without washing it?

Over a short period some people do wear them unwashed to aim for contrast in the fading, but leaving sweat and body oils in the fabric for a long time damages it. Washing once after a reasonable amount of wear, then washing regularly according to how often you wear them, is the way to make them last.

When should I do the first wash?

There is no fixed answer. Judge by your aim: after several weeks to several months of wear if you want clear whiskers and honeycombs, or earlier if you prioritise the condition of the fabric and hygiene. Using the point at which dirt or odour starts to bother you as a guide is also fine.

I am worried about colour transfer from raw denim. What should I do?

Deep indigo raw denim transfers colour particularly easily, so in the early stages avoid rubbing against light-coloured clothing, shoes and bags, and take care with friction while wet, such as on rainy days. Always wash them on their own. As the colour settles with wear, transfer gradually decreases.

Are raw denim and selvedge denim the same thing?

They mean different things. Raw denim refers to the untreated (unwashed) state, while selvedge refers to the type of loom and woven edge. Combinations satisfying both are common, and there are cases like KURO's where selvedge fabric woven on vintage shuttle looms in Okayama is made up as raw denim.